As we know China has both official state-sanctioned churches (Chinese Patriotic Catholic Association) and unofficial underground churches that maintain their allegiance to the Vatican. Even though it is hard to estimate the total number of Catholics in China, figures always tend to range between 10 to 12 million.
To address the historical division between them, one significant development was the signing of the provisional agreement on the appointment of bishops in September 2018.
This agreement aimed to resolve the longstanding issue of conflicting appointments of bishops by both the Vatican and the Chinese government, which had led to divisions within the Catholic community in China.
Understanding the true situation on the ground regarding whether these agreements will effectively mend the division between the two faith communities is a challenging endeavour.
While assessing the well-being and vibrancy of the visible official Church is relatively straightforward, as it is openly visible, gauging the condition of the underground Church is a more intricate task due to the limited first-hand reports available.
I had a rare opportunity to directly witness a clandestine gathering within the underground Church, an experience that stands as a testament to its existence and uniqueness.
“I was introduced to the climate of caution and secrecy under which the Chinese ‘underground’ Church operates”
It was around eight years ago and I was venturing into one of China’s most captivating cities, Qingdao. Here one could easily get lost in the alleys of Badaguan, feeling a world apart from the sweeping empire of new riches that have sprouted concrete monstrosities across the Chinese landscape. In contrast, this neighbourhood boasts charming villas with red roofs due to its German inheritance.
Fate had it that on board a bus en route to the city centre, I encountered a Chinese nun in secular clothing. Noticing the wooden cross she wore around her neck — an uncommon sight in China — I struck up a conversation. She resided in the Philippines and was visiting her ailing mother.
She opened up about the underground Church, a distinct entity from the Chinese Catholic Patriotic Association that does not recognize the pope’s authority. Almost instinctively, I inquired about the possibility of attending a “secret” Mass.